Less than a year and a half ago, I stumbled into hobby gardening as a distraction from stress. My fascination with the alchemy that is plant science and development grew, and I switched my major from biomedical engineering to horticulture halfway through the summer on an impulse. In my first lecture I heard horticulture described as both a science and an art. At that time, this was an abstract concept to me, though I had an intense desire to learn more about this interaction. </p> Less than a year from that day, I sit writing this having developed both as an artist and scientist through an internship with Bonsai Specialist Larry Jackel in the Bill Hosokawa Bonsai Pavilion. </p> As an intern specializing in Bonsai Collection Management and Curation, I spent a significant portion of my time photographing the entire bonsai collection for our plant records database, in order to monitor changes in the health and styling of the trees over time. Though this was the main project I had to complete, most of my internship was spent learning the methods, techniques and design concepts for bonsai culture in an apprenticeship format. This included the development and understanding of three concepts. </p> The first of these concepts was “to achieve horticultural mastery of plants in pots.” This scientific base allows the art to exist; in the words of my mentor, “A dead tree in a pot is not bonsai.” Horticultural mastery includes frequency and quality of watering, in-depth analysis of the benefits of porous and highly inorganic substrates and soil components, as well as common fertilizing practices. </li> The true fusion of science and art happens through the management of new growth, which was the second concept. This included learning several skills unique to bonsai culture, plus a few universal skills: fine pruning as a method to improve artistic elements of the design (such as negative space and asymmetry); wrapping copper wire tightly around branches to allow for the bending of these branches into positions that suit the design; “jinning,” or pruning in such a way that the pruned cut appears as a natural dead snag; and repotting, which reduces the root system to allow the tree to restore its original vigor. </li> Developing an understanding of design, which immersed me fully into the artistic side of horticulture, was the final concept. This included learning to analyze trees using the principles and elements of design, with a specific focus on space, balance, movement, form and unity. From there, it was a matter of learning to use the skills of pruning, wiring and repotting in order to make the starter material resemble a memorable tree in miniature. Most often this meant creating an environmentally driven form, or a tree that has been shaped by years of wind, snow, lightning and unfavorable placement. This only scratches the surface of design concepts within bonsai. </li> </ul> These skills culminated in the development of several of my own trees, from start to finish. The most remarkable of these was a Panchito manzanita (Arctostaphylos </em>× coloradensis </em>‘Panchito’) that I styled in the semi-cascade form, resembling a tree hanging horizontally from a cliff face. In addition to this, I gained experience through the restyling of a larger ponderosa pine, and through a project in which I was given the ability to choose which trees to present from the collection, and where to situate them within the pavilion for the appropriate emphasis, visual movement, variation and light requirements. </p> Although bonsai culture seems niche within the whole realm of horticulture, it has changed the way I think about plants and the interaction between art and science. While I am now certain my interest is in public horticulture, I hope to practice bonsai for years to come, whether as a hobby or an occupation. I’m incredibly grateful to have had this unique internship experience, and for the opportunity to connect and learn from top-tier horticulturists with a large diversity of passions and interests. </p> This post was written by Bonsai Collection Management and Curation intern J. Henry Basile,</em> a junior at Kansas State University studying general horticulture and minoring in Spanish. </em></span></span></p> </p>
As early as mid-April, migrating hummingbirds begin arriving in Colorado. Their presence is announced with the humming and whirring sounds made by their wings as they dart from flower to flower. At Denver Botanic Gardens these entertaining birds are commonly seen feeding on nectar and insects, aggressively protecting their territory, diving from the sky or checking out an unsuspecting visitor.</p> Indeed, Denver Botanic Gardens, with its diversity of plant species whose blooms span the seasons, provides an excellent stopover for migrating hummingbirds. As you take this tour, you will most likely be rewarded with the sights and sounds of these charismatic birds.</p> Now is the time to welcome hummingbirds with open flowers!</strong></p> Begin this tour at the Darlene Radichel Plant Select® Garden</strong> to see one of our earliest blooming shrubs: Arctostaphylos</em> × coloradensis</em> 'Panchito'. Facing Monet Pool</strong>, turn left onto the gravel pathway and look for a sprawling shrub on your right with thick, leathery, evergreen leaves. In the springtime, this plant has pinkish-white urn-shaped flowers that attract hummers. A Plant Select® native selection from the Uncompahgre Plateau, this cultivar will thrive in a well-drained area of your yard, where it will become a lovely evergreen groundcover and an early nectar source for hummers. </li> Next, head to the Gates Montane Garden</strong> to see another early bloomer, which is native to the Front Range. As you stroll through the shady forest, you may notice columbine (Aquilegia</em> spp.) and fireweed (Chamerion angustifolium</em>) in bloom, which are great mid-season nectar species for hummers. On your right, before you exit the Gates Montane Garden and where several paths converge with the main path, you will see wax currant (Ribes cereum</em>), a medium-sized shrub with maple-like leaves. In the springtime, it produces tubular, pale-pink flowers, which attract hummingbirds. If you are looking for a shrub with showier and more fragrant flowers, another wild currant that thrives in Front Range landscapes is golden currant (R. aureum</em>).</li> </ul> There are a host of showy mid-season-blooming species that attract hummingbirds</strong> including columbine (Aquilegia</em> spp.), scarlet gilia (Ipomopsis aggregata</em>), harebells (Campanula rotundifolia</em>), larkspur (Delphinium</em> spp.) coral bells (Heuchera</em> spp.), bergamot (Monarda </em>spp.), orange milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa</em>), Penstemon</em> spp. and Colorado Four O’clock (Mirabilis multiflora</em>). This tour features the latter two.</p> Exit the Gates Montane Garden and continue on the main path through the Rock Alpine Garden</strong>. Turn left on the path that divides the Upper Meadow from the South Ledge. About two-thirds of the way down, look for Colorado Four O'clock (Mirabilis multiflora</em>), which should still be in full bloom. This showy, drought-tolerant species has dark green leaves and lovely magenta flowers that attract hummingbirds. It is the perfect addition to Front Range landscapes – just allow enough space for it to grow!</li> Next, continue to Sacred Earth</strong>. You will be greeted with sprays of red, trumpet-shaped flowers amongst wispy grasses. These flowers belong to Bridges’ penstemon (Penstemon rostriflorus</em>), which is a later-blooming species of Penstemon</em>. Extend your red-blooming penstemon season with the early-blooming Eaton’s penstemon (P. eatonii</em>), followed by the mid-season scarlet bugler (P. barbatus</em>), followed by Bridges’ penstemon. While you are at it, why not add the early, pink-blooming desert beardtongue (P. pseudospectabilis</em>), a showy landscaping plant that is popular with hummingbirds in my yard.</li> </ul> Late Season Flowers for Hummingbirds: Send Hummingbirds off With a Nectar Party</strong></p> By early September, hummingbirds are heading south towards their wintering grounds. Fortunately, there are many late-blooming species that provide nectar for hummingbirds, including species of Salvia</em>, Agastache</em> and Epilobium</em>. The Roads Water-Smart Garden</strong> showcases examples of all three genera.</p> Once you reach the Water-Smart Garden, look for hummingbird trumpet (Epilobium canum</em> ssp. garrettii </em>‘PWWG01S’ ORANGE CARPET®) on your right. With its myriad showy orange-red flowers, you can’t miss it. Planted in your yard, it will quickly spread to form a ground cover that blooms from mid to late summer. And, as the common name suggests, this western nativar (native cultivar) is irresistible to hummingbirds.</li> As you continue through the Water-Smart Garden, notice the various species and cultivars of Salvia</em>. A favorite is Salvia greggii</em> ‘Furman’s Red’, which will be on your left. This species has crimson flowers that will bloom in the spring and then again through the fall. As you approach it, you will also see Agastache</em> on your left that is beginning to bloom.</li> End your tour with a walk along Water-Smart Garden’s gravel path, searching for various cultivars of both Salvia</em> and Agastache</em>. Notice how they are grouped with other drought-tolerant species including trees, shrubs, succulents and grasses to provide a textural and colorful landscape that is also beneficial for hummingbirds.</li> </ul> Once you have incorporated these plants into your garden, hummingbirds will come, although it may take time for hummingbirds to notice. When you hear the metallic whirring of a male broad-tailed hummingbird and watch it dart from flower to flower, you know your efforts have paid off!</p> In closing, it should also be mentioned that providing natural nectar sources in your yard is one important thing you can do for hummingbirds. However, hummingbirds also need water, shelter and space. To learn more, visit National Audubon Society’s website</a>.</p>
